JEAN RICARD
EVEREST FOR KIDS
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Final Entry
Thank you all for your support during the past year. I have prepared a short slide show (28 pictures) for your enjoyment. Please check it out by clicking on the link below.

Cheers!
Jean

 Slide Show
Results
What a year! I began 2007 with an email to all of you asking for your support in raising $70,000 with the "Everest for Kids" expedition for CHEO and the CSSS of Gatineau. Climbing the mountain, even though I had to turn back 500 meters from the summit, was quite an experience for me. But now, I have another reason to celebrate 2007. As of Monday December 17th, we have raised $70,065 for the incubators for CHEO and CSSS of Gatineau. I am happy that we have succeeded in reaching this 2nd summit of my expedition. And it's all thanks to you. We will be updating the web site over the Christmas period with the new total and a final entry on the news page. Again, I want to thank you all from the bottom of my heart, on my behalf and the two foundations, for your generosity. With this equipment, we will be saving lives!

I wish all of you and your families a very merry Christmas and a year full of health, happiness and adventures.

Jean

Addendum
Hello all. Well, the fundraising campaign is drawing to a close. I've had a great time organizing and hosting a number of events to try and reach our goal of $70,000 to purchase the incubator for the CSSS of Gatineau and the infant care centre for CHEO. We had a great turnout, 80 people attended our closing event on October 26th at Camp Fortune and, based on the feedback I received, everyone enjoyed the talks by all three (3) Everest climbers. Also, Dawa Nuru Sherpa enjoyed meeting some of you. He is heading back to Nepal this week and will be participating in another Everest expedition in the spring. We raised close to $4,000 for the evening. Thanks to a large anonymous donation, we are now close to our goal of $70,000. As of November 30th, our total is $67,015, only $2,985 away from our objective. I will be hosting two more events in the next few weeks, so stay tuned for further news. We will be posting the final amount around December 31st.

It's not too late to contribute, please click on "To Donate" below the thermometer and make your donation.

Thank you again for your support.

Jean



Dinner Conference
A dinner benefit will be held on Friday October 26th at the main chalet of Camp Fortune. The dinner will benefit the CHEEO and CSSS of Gatineau foundations and will be used to purchase much needed incubators for the two hospitals. The conference will include presentations by three Ottawa-Gatineau climbers who climbed Mount Everest in 2006 and 2007. Jean-François Carrey became the youngest Canadian to reach the summit of Everest in May 2006, Meagan McGrath became the youngest Canadian woman to complete the 7 summits, the highest summit on each of the continents when she reached Everest's summit in May 2007 and Jean Ricard combined his Everest summit bid with a fund raiser for CHEO and the CSSS de Gatineau. Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Jean and Jean-François' sherpa will also be at the event.

For information or tickets:

CHEO Foundation:613-737-2780
CSSS of Gatineau foundation (Benoit Brunet):819-595-6108
Everest:   JUNE 4
Ottawa:   JUNE 4
Hello all.

I’ve been back a few days now and am trying to catch up with all the e-mail and phone calls as well as trying to get some rest. I am touched by all the congratulatory messages I received since May 20th, when I decided to abort my Everest summit bid and return to Camp 4. It was a very tough decision to make, but I am convinced I made the right choice even tough I don’t remember how I felt when I made the decision. I had been training hard for about a year and did not want to abandon my dream, but I also did not want to endanger anyone, especially my climbing partner Dawa Nuru, should I have to be rescued off the mountain. Having had taken part in a rescue at 6,000m on Aconcagua in 2004, I took my situation very seriously and opted for the safe route, i.e, descend while I could.

One day later, a total of 6 people risked their lives to save another climber stranded (cerebral oedema) about the same place I decided to turn around, 8300m. Dave Hahn, Mike Haugen and Casey Grom of our IMG team, with the help of 3 others, spent hours lowering the climber from just below the balcony to Camp 4 and then to Camp 3 at 7400m. Rescues at that altitude are at best extremely difficult and at worst, life-threatening for the rescuers. No helicopters are able to go to that altitude, so climbers have to be carried in makeshift sleds (usualy a sleeping bag) all the way down to base camp at 5,400m. The rescue was a success and the climber lived to tell the story – one of the lucky ones.

When I returned to my tent at the col (Camp 4 - 8,000m), I slept for 6 hours straight on oxygen. In the morning, Dawa and I prepared our packs for the descent to Camp 2 where we would spend the night before descending to Base Camp. It was a very emotional time for me as I thanked Dawa for forfeiting his 6th Everest summit to come back down with me and for supporting my decision to turn back. We snapped some pictures and took some video and then headed down the mountain. In 2 hours, we were at Camp 3 for a re-hydration rest and then another 1h30 and we were at Camp 2 (6500m). It took us 3h30 to descend what had taken 2 days to climb.

The next day we were on the trail to Base Camp at 5:30am. All of us were anxious to get back down safely through the Ice Fall for one last time. Everything went perfectly and we were at Base Camp for lunch. It’s incredible how much oxygen there is at BC compared to the higher camps. I was congratulated by the expedition leader for having taken the difficult decision of turning back. But the icing on the cake was when I called Louise and told her that we were on our way back. The dangerous parts of the expedition were over and she was relieved. She also congratulated me for turning back.

The next morning, after emotional goodbyes to all the Sherpas and to Dawa in particular, we were off for the three day hike back to Lukla and then Kathmandu. We spent the 1st night in Periche, the 2nd in Namche and then Lukla. The next morning, our Yeti airline flight took us to Kathmandu, and a hot shower, real food and a real bed. What a pleasure! It was May 25th and our expedition was over. I managed to get my flights changed to the 28th of may and was back in Ottawa on the 29th.

Great to be back home!

Namaste!
Jean

NOTE: For all those who contributed to the fund-raising for incubators for CHEO and CSSSG, I will be scheduling a film presentation of the Everest 2007 expedition in the near future. Stay tuned to the web site for details. For those who have not yet contributed, there is still time to make your donation on our web site (www.everest2007.ca) or by phone at 819-595-6108. Thank you very much.



Everest:   MAY 21
Ottawa:   MAY 21
Hello,

Jean called me this morning May 21st, his voice full of emotion. He's back safe and sound at Base Camp, having traversed the Khumbu icefall for the last time! The route had changed again due to the ever-falling ice.

He is quite sad at not having made the summit of Everest, although his accomplishments are nevertheless impressive. He has gone to his utmost limits as never before in his life. He took the difficult decision of coming back due to exhaustion. It was better to come back with the strength he still had, rather than foolishly pushing himself to the point of collapse and put Dawa in the position of risking his own life to save Jean's.

Jean told me that when he decided to come back, he thought of all you children in the École du Plateau 3rd grade. He had promised to bring your Yeti to the summit and he was very sad at not being able to do so. He wondered: How am I going to tell them?

He leaves Base Camp May 22 to begin his return to Kathmandu. From there, he will begin the long trip back home. He's looking forward to seeing everyone, he misses us!

Louise
Everest:   MAY 20
Ottawa:   MAY 20
A few days before Jean left for Nepal, during a live interview with Danièle Grenier on Radio-Canada, a listener, Mr Camille Lafrenière, hurriedly sent an email to the studio asking for Jean to contact him immediately. As Jean was leaving the studio, someone caught up with him and asked him to come back and speak to Mr Lafrenière on the airwaves.

Mr Lafrenière had just come back from a trip to Asia where he had been particularly affected by the living conditions there, especially those of the children, and wished to tell Jean that he would make a generous contribution to his cause, but he also wished to make an additional $500 donation to a cause that would directly benefit the children of Nepal.

Jean, during his stay there, made some inquiries among the local people in order to find such a cause that would honour Mr Lafrenière's wish and benefit from the $500 gift. On the eve of his departure for the summit, May 15th, Jean sent the information for Mr Lafrenière's donation.

The $500 will serve to rebuild a wall surrounding the school in Phortse village, in Khumbu valley, Nepal. This school was originally founded by the Hillary foundation. The wall was destroyed as a result of a combination of snowmelt and water infiltration. The cost to rebuild the wall has been estimated at 100,000 Rupies or about $1,500 Canadian.

Below is a photo of Jean with three representatives of the school committee. Mr Lafrenière has modestly allowed us to identify him, so that a ray of good news may be shown to exist among the all-too-often unpleasant headlines of the times we live in.

Everest:   MAY 19
Ottawa:   MAY 19
I've just heard late this afternoon (May 19) that Jean made the decision to turn back while he was on his way to the summit. Knowing Jean, I know that this decision must have been heartbreaking, but he chose to put his health and his life before anything else. Before he left, he had promised Josee (our daughter) and myself never to put his life in danger. I am proud of him and his thoughtfulness. Jean has shown us all that if you're patient enough, your dream can become reality. Josée and I cheer him with all our hearts. He's our hero.

To the children of the École du Plateau: Jean has cherished you all along this adventure. He spoke of you to me often, how you were an inspiration to him. Thank you very much, and I'm sure he can't wait to see you again and share with you all sorts of thrilling stories!

Finally, Sherpa Dawa Nuru's contribution cannot remain untold. Dawa stayed by Jean's side, helped him and supported him. The Sherpas are humble beings who value compassion over accomplishments.

When Jean has had a chance to communicate with me, we will post further news.

Thank you all for your support.

Louise
 
PLEASE NOTE
 
Barring a major change in the weather forecasts, Jean has confirmed by telephone this morning (May 14) that he will be leaving Base Camp on the morning of May 15, for the summit.

Jean's team, International Mountain Guides (IMG), will be getting regular radio updates of his (and his teammates') progress, and will post them on their website. We may or may not receive updates as frequently, so we invite you to check IMG's website for the latest news. Be sure to be on the lookout for "JR", since that's how IMG is referring to Jean.

Here is the link to IMG:
International Mountain Guides expedition website

And you may also find this useful:
Weather Network Everest Base Camp
Weather Network Everest Summit

BONNE CHANCE JEAN! OUR THOUGHTS ARE WITH YOU!
Everest:   MAY 10
Ottawa:   MAY 10
A big thanks to the 3rd grade students from the École du Plateau!

The 3rd grade students from the École du Plateau proudly present a cheque for $1197.11 to contribute to Jean's "Everest for Kids" fundraiser and encourage others to do the same. On the photo, surrounded by the students and teachers of 3rd grade, are, to the left, Jean Bernier, director of development and communications for the CSSS of Gatineau Foundation, and to the right, Jean-Éric Lacroix, principal of the École du Plateau.

Everest:   MAY 8
Ottawa:   MAY 8
Hello everyone,

My third and final acclimatisation rotation took place between April 30 and May 7. Our goal was to reach Camp 3 (7,250 meters), spend the night there without resorting to any extra oxygen, and stay a total of eight days in extreme altitude, that is to say above Base Camp. The next step will now be the push for the summit, which will take place as soon as there's a favourable weather window.

The third rotation began April 30 with another traversal of the Khumbu icefall, my fifth. The route has changed since my last rotation, due to the changing ice conditions. It's now longer and harder, about an hour more at my speed. So I crossed the icefall and slept at Camp 1. The next day, we walked to Camp 2 via the CMW (apparently a German word pronounced "comb"). This place is like a mirror filled with snow and surrounded by mountains. During our walk the temperature registered as much as +37 Celsius (!) making our high-altitude hike even more difficult as we reached Camp 2. This camp is situated on a moraine (a jumble of rocks carried there by a glacier) and is safe from avalanches. It's also known as the Advanced Base Camp since there's a kitchen here. I was supposed to stay here one night, but most of the climbers elected to stay two nights, so I decided to follow their lead. On the day we were supposed to go to Camp 3, I didn't feel very well, I was very fatigued. I hadn't slept well because the idea of climbing to Camp 3 made me a bit nervous; in fact this stage had me stressed out from the start. So I decided to stay another day at Camp 2, giving me three days at 6,500m, which helped me better acclimatise.

On the next day, May 5, I was in shape and Dawa and I set off for Camp 3. What an adventure, my friends! After just over an hour's walk, we arrived at the Lhotse face and started to climb the ice wall. The first part, about 100 meters, is very steep (about 80 degrees!), steeper than the Luskville Falls. I tied on to the fixed ropes, stuck my crampons in the ice before me, and climbed, 30cm (1') at a time. It was exhausting work. This first part took me between an hour and an hour and a half to climb. The next part, about 400 meters, was less steep, but still comprised an angle that rarely dipped below 50 degrees. I'd never climbed anything like that before, it was tough work.

At 200 meters from Camp 3, I see tents, huzzah! Unfortunately, I'm aware that they're not ours - the IMG tents are on the third level, not the first. Camp 3 is divided into three levels. Different expedition companies choose to erect their tents on different levels. The advantage in being higher is that you're that much closer to the summit when it's time to go for the top, having already climbed a good part of Lhotse. When I saw the first tents, I was already tired. It's not absolutely essential to acclimatise at Camp 3, so my mind was already trying to convince me to cop out. Should I go on? Or should I go back to Camp 2? How much time do I have left? All these questions tormented me. Finally, I decided to reach the first tents and decide once there whether or not to continue to our Camp 3. The ascent was done with the help of Jumars fixed to the rope (installed by the Sherpas). One Jumar pull equates to about an arm's length, which is two or three steps. I do about 10 Jumar pulls, 20 or 30 steps, then I take a 3 or 4 minute break. Then another set of 10, and so on. Then I start thinking, maybe I'll do 15 this time! The cycle continues, and it seems like those tents will never get there. Finally I arrive at the first level, and I take 30 minutes to rest and decide whether or not I want to go on to the third level, where the IMG tents are. Finally I use the radio to tell them that I'm pushing on. I eventually arrived at my destination after 7 hours and 23 minutes (by my watch), 6 hours of which were spent climbing an ice wall between 50 and 80 degrees. I was happy to get there! And I was also very pleased at having persevered, despite the hard day. I spent the rest of the day lying on my back, relaxing and admiring the landscape. It was great!

The next day, what had taken 7:23 to climb, took 2 hours to descend, and it was fun too! Finally, Dawa and I spent a night at Camp 2 and then came back down to Base Camp for a well deserved rest. I slept twelve straight hours after I got back! Now all that's left is to wait for nice weather and it'll be time for the final conquest of the mountain. The next few days will be devoted to rest and eating. I badly need to replenish my energy!

Until next time... Jean
Everest:   MAY 7
Ottawa:   MAY 7
Jean phoned this morning, he is back at Base Camp now. He is doing well and his third rotation went as planned. The next news bulletin in a few days' time will have more details (editor's note: knowing Jean, much more details). He expects to rest for about a week before starting for the summit.
Everest:   MAY 6
Ottawa:   MAY 6
News came in today informing us that Jean is still at Camp 2 at the moment, so we must wait until his return to Base Camp for a more complete account of his latest rotation, since there is no satellite phone available to him at camp 2.
Everest:   APRIL 30
Ottawa:   APRIL 30
As had been expected, Jean began his third rotation today, and he crossed the Khumbu icefall without a problem.
Everest:   APRIL 28
Ottawa:   APRIL 28
During the last rest period, I had chosen to make some fairly long walks (3 to 5 hours), at least every two days, in order to keep in shape. I decided this time to go for total rest (except for some short walks within base camp, which is pretty vast). I made this decision based on my efforts of the last month. Ever since our arrival at base camp, I haven't had much rest. There have been the two rotation, a hike to Gorap Shep, then Pumori, Kala Pattar, etc. And the last rotation was pretty rough on me: 6800 meters, not much sleep, the cold, etc.

We'll soon see if this was the right strategy. The disadvantage is that it's boring since there's nothing to do all day long. Climbing is hard on the body and resting is hard on the mind.

The next rotation begins April 30. Here's the plan:

April 30: Overnight at camp 1
May 1: Overnight at camp 2
May 2: Rest at camp 2
May 3: Trek to camp 3 and overnight there. The day will begin at 5am. There is oxygen available at camp 3, but we are encouraged not to use it in order to help acclimatise.
May 4: Try to climb to 7400-7500 meters and then return to camp 2.
May 5: Rest at camp 2
May 6: Back to base camp (the lap of luxury)

Another day might be added to the schedule if I decide to stay at camp 2 another night, either before camp 3 or after.

We received a hour-long training session on the use of the TopOut system by the system's creator himself. It's reassuring, especially since some members of our team have used the system on Cho Oyu and Everest, and they say it's the best system out there (among those saying this is a guide who has summited Everest a number of times).

The first fatal accident of the year on Everest has happened. It was April 26 on Lhotse. A Sherpa was carrying supplies to camp 3. We don't have all the details yet, but it made me think and this is what I wrote about it.

Friday April 27 2007 - A Sherpa was killed yesterday on Everest.

I did not know him, or perhaps I did;
His name might have been Passang, Mingma, Pemba or Dawa;
He worked on the mountain and was probably a father;
He probably chose this line of work as his father did before him;
Because it's a well-paying job in his native region, Khumbu Nepal.
He died in a workplace accident, doing the work he knew so well;
Like so many construction workers in our own land;
He did his seasonal work with a smile;
Always faithfully following the orders of his Nepali bosses;
The seasonal employment being so important to his family;
He will be remembered as a good, strong, loyal worker;
His wife will remember him as a good provider for their 4 or 5 children;
His children, as a father with his flaws, but a model nonetheless;
His colleagues as a good friend and teammate;
His bosses, like all bosses, after honouring him, will replace him.
It is not our lot to question the validity of the tourism industry on Everest;
Here it is and here it will remain;
The hoteliers, porters, cooks, and Sherpas make their living here;
Accidents will happen and the important thing is to draw lessons for those who will follow;
So that the children of these mountain workers will have better working conditions than those of the fathers they follow.
May this sacrifice and that of those before him not be in vain.

Jean - April 27, 2007
Everest:   APRIL 27
Ottawa:   APRIL 27
A number of people asked who was in the photo that was posted in the news item for April 15 to 18. The person on the left (on Jean's right) is Dawa Nuru Sherpa, who is accompanying Jean on his climb, whereas on the right (on Jean's left) is Tende Sherpa, the brother of the late and memorable Babu Chiri Sherpa (10 Everest summits), who lost his life in 2001 after falling in a crevasse near camp 2.
Everest:   APRIL 25
Ottawa:   APRIL 25
Hello everyone,

Here's a news summary of the second rotation (April 19 to 23), where the goal was to climb to 6800 meters in a few days, in order to continue altitude acclimatisation and make a reconnaissance visit to camp 2. Dawa and I left base camp April 19 and spent a night at camp 1 (6100m) and three nights at camp 2 (6500m). This was done so that so that our tolerance to altitude would be improved for the next, third rotation.

So, departure at 4:30 am, April 19, and back into the Khumbu icefall once again. It's a bit of a scary bit, and it's tiring too because we're constantly climbing giant blocks of ice. Up one side, down the other... At one point, there's a 30 meter vertical climb! At 5700 meters, it's an exhaustive climb. During the first hour, I always wonder what am I doing here, but then it gets better, my doubts ebb away, and I climb on.

Finally we get to camp 1. Priority one is rest and rehydration. I'm tired but very satisfied since I was able to climb Khumbu 2 hours faster than the first time! I'm now in the average times. My efforts are rewarded.

The next day (April 20), Dawa and I get up early. The temperature is about -15 degrees (C). The night was cold, I didn't sleep very well. At around 6:45, Dawa and I are ready and we leave for camp 2. My backpack is heavier because I'm carrying stuff for camp 2, which makes the walk a bit harder. The part between camps 1 and 2 is called the CMW, which everyone refers to as "coom". It's like a bowl of snow, and as the sun is reflected inside, the temperature rises quickly. Again, for a while I wonder why I'm here, it's tiring, but then it gets better when I remember my goal.

In the CMW, you climb, climb and climb, and you feel like you'll never get there. Camp 2 is visible nearly from the start of the walk, but it seems like you'll never reach it. It can become very frustrating. I used a few of the 85 doses of courage that the students of the École du Plateau kindly gave me before my departure. Yes my friends, I think of you often.

The last hill before camp 2, less than a kilometer in length, takes a whole hour. Finally we arrive at camp 2. It's more comfortable than camp 1. We get settled in. I have a roommate in my tent for the first time.

The next day, April 21, I don't feel like I've accomplished very much. Aside from getting up for three meals and the occasional nature call, I remained horizontal for most of the day. Nevertheless, I know my body is working hard, since we're 1200 meters above base camp. So, on the agenda: reading, music, napping. There's a bit of snow in the afternoon and the night is cold. I woke up gasping for breath: it's sleep apnea, common at this altitude.

The following morning, we leave camp 2 at around 8:30, roped up in groups of 4, towards Lhotse, a wall of blue ice that leads to camp 3. We are roped together because there are small crevasses here, since we're still in the CMW. We can step over them since they're small. There are no ladders. An hour and 45 minutes later we arrive at the base of the Lhotse wall, which we will climb on our next rotation. This ice wall looks difficult, but as people climb it they tend to form steps in the ice, rendering it more like a sort of ladder. At 50 meters from the wall, we turn back since one of the members of our rope team is worried about his hands freezing; it's about -20C and the wind is very strong. I couldn't take any pictures, my camera froze - thankfully it's fine now. I've reached 6800 meters, slightly higher than I've ever been before on Aconcagua. :)

Back to camp 2: eat, drink, rest. I'm confident of being able to climb to camp 3 after today's journey. I'm acquiring experience and knowledge of the terrain all while acclimatising more. One step at a time, of course.

In the evening, we got about 10cm of snow and decide to leave for base camp the next day, a day early. The descent is successful. The freshly fallen snow hid the crevasses in the CMW. I'm thankful to good Dawa who knows the way and guided me safely home.

I'll be resting from April 24 to April 29. We're scheduled to leave April 30th for the third rotation which will include a night at camp 3, so stay tuned, folks! I don't intend to do much in the next few days except for a few walks here and there and another visit to the pastry shop!

I'm sending you three photos:

The first is my arrival in camp 1 after having traversed the Khumbu icefall (Louise comments: a bit tired, dear? :)


The second is a birthday cake for Benjamin, a teammate on the climb. The cake was baked from scratch here at base camp! Amazing!


The third photo is the team of cooks at base camp. Left to right: Thunang, Dn Sher, Pemba, and Pasang. Thusang is 22 years old. One of his tasks is to keep the water replenished. 10 to 12 times a day, he walks a kilometer to get fresh water (uncontaminated by campers' waste) from a pond, often covered in ice, and then brings it back to the kitchen tent to boil it in large plates. He carries about 400 liters of water each day (yes, 400!) to supply the climbers and also the Sherpas. This is only part of his tasks, which he always carries out with a smile on his face. It makes one think, does it not?


On that note, I leave you 'til the next news!

Jean
Everest:   APRIL 23
Ottawa:   APRIL 23
Jean is back at Base Camp as of April 23, one day ahead of schedule. The early return was done in order to avoid a snowstorm which would have kept the team at Camp 2. He is doing well and there will be more news this week on his trek to Camps 1 and 2.
Everest:   APRIL 15-18
Ottawa:   APRIL 15-18
Hi everyone,

Well, the period from April 15 to April 18 was devoted to resting, following our first rotation to Camp 1. We have to recover after the ascent and make some red blood cells that will carry the oxygen we so badly need. So now's the chance to eat, drink, take a shower, do the laundry. I slept like a baby when we got back from Camp 1. 800 meters less makes a real difference in quality of sleep! Everything is relative in life, and after having stayed overnight at Camp 1, I was overjoyed to rediscover the luxurious beauty and comfort of Base Camp!

I also took an afternoon to make notes about things I can improve upon during my ascents, such as eating more often and keeping hydrated. This is very important: you have to keep your energy levels up and not wait until you're hungry. If you do, it's too late and it leads to a drop in energy. So I spent some time figuring that out and trying to come up with a good climbing strategy. The body is a machine that requires fuel at the right time.

Over the last week, Base Camp has grown substantialy - there are now about 25 to 30 teams here. I've discovered a fellow from Kathmandu who opened up a pastry counter where I ate a slice of apple pie that was out of this world! He even set up a movie tent! I think I'm going to treat myself to a movie where I get back from the second rotation.

We went on a little side-trip to Gorak Shep and also a 600 meter climb, as ever for acclimatisation purposes. The daily temperature is usually the same: sunny mornings at around 8 or 9 degress (C). Clouds appear shortly after lunch and there's snow in the afternoons. At around nightfall, the temperature drops to between 0 and -5 C. As of this day, I feel well, I eat and sleep well, and I don't think I've lost any weight. I don't have headaches, which is a good sign in this altitude.

Tomorrow, April 19, we're getting up at 3am to go to Camp 1 for an overnight, then to Camp 2 for a three-night stay and a side-trip to the base of Lhotse, then back to Camp 1 for a night, and finally back to Base Camp by April 24. We're leaving very early the 19th so as to avoid being stuck behind other people in the Khumbu icefall. It's not a place anyone wants to stick around very long.

You are all in my thoughts. I get messages from some of you via Louise and I want to thank you - it's very motivating.

Namaste,

Jean

Latest news: Jean has once again traversed the Khumbu icefall and is at Camp 1. He'll be at Camp 2 by April 20 and back to Base Camp by the 24th.
Everest:   APRIL 12-14
Ottawa:   APRIL 12-14
The action begins with our first rotation: from base camp to camp 1 for an overnight, then a trek to camp 2 and back for another overnight at camp 1, then return to base camp. These rotations are necessary for a gradual acclimatisation to higher altitudes. We left early Thursday morning (April 12) and began climbing the Khumbu icefall, sometimes just called 'The Icefall'. It's roughly composed of three sections.

The first section looks like frozen waves, about 5 to 10 meters each. There are about fifteen of these, so we go up and down and up and down, without feeling that we've gained any ground but at the end we're up about 200 to 300 meters from the start. There are steep crevasses in this section and we cross them on ladders fixed horizontally over them. There are many ropes tied off, near the ladders and elsewhere.

The second section is called Popcorn because it looks just like that, except for its scale: it's more a jumble of ice blocks all piled up on top of each other. These blocks are sometimes unstable so we have to be very careful where we step. There are ropes fixed all along this section, at the end of which we have gained another 200 meters. At one point is a pretty scary bit. One giant block has fallen in such a way that we have to go under it, like a tunnel. No loitering here.

The last section is the most difficult not merely because we are already tired, but also because it involves climbing crevasse walls. These crevasses are too wide to cross with ladders, so we have to climb down one face and climb back up the other. Each one involves ice climbing for 15 to 20 meters at a time. I often thing that we're finally there, but there's another one just beyond. Finally we arrive at camp 1 (6100m) and it's beautiful. On one side is Everest at 8850m, and on the other, Nuptse at 7900m. It took 7 hours to climb Khumbu. Next time should be quicker thanks to acclimatisation and practise. Now that we're up, we prepare our tent, sleeping bag, and get some food and rest.

The first night was very windy. There were two gusts where I swore I'd be taken away, tent and all! I didn't sleep well at all because of the cold and wind. I failed to make the proper clothes/sleeping bag combination. But I'm a fast study - next night was much better.

The next day, we trekked to camp 2 (6500m), where it was sunny but windy. The first part of the trip between camp 1 and camp 2 looked a lot like the third part of Khumbu: a number of large crevasses that we had to climb down and up. The second part is more of a gradual slope. I travelled 75% of the distance then decided to regain camp 1 to rest and recover - I did not want to use up all my strength reserves.

The following day, we came back to base camp. The descent through Khumbu was difficult since we go through the same challenges as the ascent.

Rest is on the agenda for April 15 to 18. We'll probably pay a visit to Gorak Shep, the closest village to Everest, to re-oxygenate a little!

Talk to you next time,

Jean



Everest:   APRIL 10-12
Ottawa:   APRIL 10-12
During our day of rest Tuesday April 10, we received training on the use of the camping stoves that we'll be using at Camps 1, 3 and 4. These will be used for melting snow for water and cooking our food. They will not be necessary at Camp 2 since there is a kitchen tent and cook there for us. We also received training on the oxygen system that we'll be using at higher altitudes.

During the day, the weather, which had up until then been favourable, began to change. Clouds took over the blue sky, it began to snow, the wind came up and the temperature dropped.

Still, I went to bed ready for an early wake-up call (4:45) since we were planning to leave for Camp 1 at 5:30. Throughout the night, the winds were very strong, often waking me from my troubled sleep with its noise. When morning finally came, the temperature inside the tent was -8C. After a meeting with the Sherpas it was decided that the ascent to Camp 1 would be pushed back to the next day, April 12, if the weather improved.

In a voice-mail message received this morning (April 12), we hear that Jean has successfully crossed the Khumbu icefall and is now at Camp 1. More news in the next few days when Jean communicates with us again.
Everest:   APRIL 5-9
Ottawa:   APRIL 5-9
I've just heard we have a new sponsor! The Association of Public Sector Information Professionals has given us a cheque for $5,000, thus becoming our second sponsor on the "Advanced Base Camp" level, on our sponsors page. I want to thank them for their generous gift; it's greatly appreciated.

Flashback to April 4th. Four or five of us woke up sick that morning, forcing us to give up our planned hike to camp 1 of Pumori, a nearby mountain. Instead we have to rest in order to recover as quickly as possible from our... manly flu? [Editor's note: Jean writes: "grippe d'homme". Make of that what you will. - DS]

Despite having a cold, I'm still hungry, which is good news. We still go out for a walk, do a bit of climbing using our equipment, just to stay in practise from the techniques we learned on Denali. While we were doing this, we witnessed an avalanche on Nuptse. It was quite impressive. We were even lightly dusted by snow blown our way by the wind. At no time were we in any danger.

At dinner time, in order to not contaminate the other climbers, the sick among us (myself included) have to go eat in a separate tent, which is quickly christened "The lepers' tent".

And now a brief account of the last few days, starting with Thursday April 5, day of the Puja. The ceremony, about 2 hours long, is officiated by the Lama of Tengboche, a buddhist priest. His face appears old from age and weathered from the harsh mountain life. I do not know his age, but I suspect he is younger than he seems. The Sherpas will not step onto a mountain until they have honoured the gods who reside upon it. Rice and flour are sprinkled. Food and spirits are offered as well. I ask that my mountain equipment be blessed.

The rest of the day is devoted to rest in order to clear up my cold. For dinner I have some buffalo steak with fries and delicious pizza. The food is really great.

I wake around 7am on Friday April 6. The thermometer inside my tent indicates 2 degrees C. I slept very well and my cold appears to have cleared up! I feel much better, despite some anxiety this morning, for today we will be paying our first visit to the Khumbu icefall. I've seen photos and films but today it's my turn to cross the ladders with crampons on my boots.

After a good breakfast, I meet Dawa around 8:30am near the Puja altar (a structure built just for the ceremony). He sprinkles a bit of rice and burns some incense. We leave together and at the foot of the icefall, we fasten our crampons and begin our ascent. It's not nearly as scary as I thought it might be. There are ropes everywhere, and the ladders are very well anchored in place. It's easy to walk on the ladders and I have a good grip on the ropes. The longest traverse involves three ladders fastened to each other. Climbing is most difficult, in part because of the altitude, but also because of the physical effort required. On three occasions, we scaled steep ice slopes with the help of ropes, Jumars, and ice axes. It took us two and a half hours to reach our goal. To do so, we negotiated 8 ladder-equipped passages out of 15 which have been installed between Base Camp and Camp 1. We climbed a total of 250 meters before coming back down. This excursion has given me a lot of confidence since I was able to see for myself the safety of the rigging.

The next day, Saturday April 7, I'm taking a day off. Let the others go play on the icefall, I did my share yesterday. I'm taking a shower! I get 15 minutes. Boy it feels great to soap up and feel clean again! It's my first shower since the beginning of the trek. The shower tent is nice and warm from the sun, ahhhh.

I decide to take a nap. I'm awoken by thunder. Clouds roll in and it starts to snow; it's the first time it snows since March 21. I get my laundry off the clothesline in a hurry and spread it out inside my tent instead.

Later, I go see Dawa inside the Sherpa tent. They're a dozen in there drinking tea, which I have the pleasure of sharing with them. I chat with them in English; sometimes they switch to Nepali and I can't understand a thing; we all laugh together; perhaps they are laughing at me; if so I don't mind, as long as we're having fun! It's a real cultural initiation. I stay for half an hour and talk to Dawa about tomorrow's journey: we'll be undertaking our missed trek up to Pumori Camp 1.

Easter Sunday. Dawa and I leave for Camp 1 of Pumori, at 5,600 meters. I really don't feel like it, but it's an acclimatisation walk and we have to do what we can to achieve our goals. The effort was well worth it. From up there, we can see almost our entire route up Everest, save for a small bit between Camps 1 and 2 that's obscured. I can see the entire Khumbu icefall, Camp 3 in Lhotse, the route from Camp 3 to Camp 4, the south col and a good part of the route to the summit. I took a bunch of photos! Hopefully I'll be able to transmit a few. We eat up top and come back down afterwards.

Monday April 9 is a day of rest for me. We hear that Camp 1 is installed. Tomorrow will be another day of rest and then perhaps Wednesday or Thursday, depending on weather, we'll climb up to Camp 1 and stay a night or two.

That's all for now, salutations to everyone and I'll be in touch!

Jean
Everest:   APRIL 4
Ottawa:   APRIL 4
Today we practised various manoeuvres with our ice equipment. We'll have more practise sessions on smaller parts of Khumbu glacier before we cover it completely, which will help build up the team's confidence before crossing the Khumbu icefall.

Everest:   APRIL 3
Ottawa:   APRIL 3
Today was an acclimatisation day at Base Camp. I had the opportunity to go for a walk with the Sherpa who will accompany me all along my adventure. His name is Dawa and he is a very nice fellow. He gave me a collar that he made himself, and which he had blessed by the Tengboche Lama, which is the highest position in the monastary. It was a great honour for me. He also showed me pictures of his three children. I'll have time to get to know him very well during the next two months as we share many experiences together.
Everest:   APRIL 2
Ottawa:   APRIL 2
We arrived at Base Camp after a two and a half hour walk from Gorak Shep. As one of the first teams to get there, we get our choice of spots on the glacier. It's amazing the platforms that the Sherpas set up for us to install our tents, the kitchen and communications tents, etc. I spent the rest of the day getting settled and chatting with others here. Another step completed!
Everest:   APRIL 1
Ottawa:   APRIL 1
Today is our 12th day of trekking, towards Gorak Shep (5,180 meters). Nighttime temperature has dropped below zero (to -5 C) for the first time last night. I don't think we'll be seeing very many nighttime lows above zero from here on. We walked along the Khumbu glacier and could see Everest.

Arriving at Gorak Shep, I wrote my report for the last 4 days while gazing up at Everest's peak, another 3,700 meters above me. There's also Lhotse (8,516 m), hidden behind Nuptse (7,879 m); I'm in the midst of giants. Further down, I can see the Khumbu icefall, an impressive sight.

We hear that everything is ready for our arrival at Base Camp tomorrow. Our expedition has two kitchen tents, another tent acting as pantry, and another for communications. We'll be there two months.

In the afternoon, we went for a hike on the Kala Patar (5,600 m). From its peak, we can see the Everest Base Camp, as well as the Khumbu glacier.

I hear that the fundraiser is going very well. This is a great source of inspiration for me and I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.

Cheers,

Jean

Everest:   MARCH 31
Ottawa:   MARCH 31
Day of rest in Lobuche under a radiant sun and 17 degrees (C) temperature. We'll have time to rest and do a bit of laundry, except for a quick hike up 210 meters to stretch our legs.
Everest:   MARCH 30
Ottawa:   MARCH 30
Moving day. We're leaving for Lobuche, we will thus be going from 4,350 meters to 4,930 meters. Some members of the expedition aren't feeling as well as when we began. Mostly it's stomach problems, while others have trouble sleeping.

I'm getting a bit bored of porridge, so this morning I ate cereal and eggs. Nice.

After a rather steep and rocky climb, we reached a monument erected for those who lost their lives on Everest, and we took a moment to remember, among others, Babu Chiri Sherpa (very well known in Nepal and elsewhere), as well as doctor Sean Egan from the University of Ottawa. It was quite moving.
Everest:   MARCH 29
Ottawa:   MARCH 29
Today we enjoyed a day of rest in Tengboche village (4,350 meters altitude). Here in the mountains there are no longer any trees. It's dry and rocky. To further acclimatise ourselves, we walked up another 570 meters. We also visited a medical clinic and received a presentation on altitude sickness: how to recognize it and what to do. The presentation was given to us by the general practitioner who is walking with us to Base Camp.

It's sunny and the temperature is about 15 degrees (Celsius). It's windy and dusty, so I've taken to walking with a kerchief over my mouth so as to preserve my airways. Dinner was delicious: vegetable fried rice and pizza! Mmmm!
Everest:   MARCH 28
Ottawa:   MARCH 28
We're off for Dingboche, situated at 4,350 meters elevation, and native town of our Sirdar. He's the chief of all our Sherpas and porters.

On the health and fitness side, some members of our group are experiencing headaches, others have mild upset stomachs. No serious trouble for anyone. For myself, I feel great and have no illness or discomfort.

So that's all the news for now, talk to you next time! You are in my thoughts,

Jean
Everest:   MARCH 27
Ottawa:   MARCH 27
Today is a day of rest. Nonetheless, wake time is the usual 6am. We visited Tengboche Monastery (see photo below) and were able to attend 3 o'clock prayers. Afterwards we visited a small monastery kept by eight nuns. They fled Tibet during the Chinese invasion. They spend their days here now, praying in these humble surroundings. What a stark comparison to our North American lifestyle.

On the way back, I met two twelve-year-old boys, Tensing and Tashi. They were amusing themselves by throwing a few snowballs, and it was fun to spend a bit of time with them.

Bedtime: 8pm (as usual)


Photo: Nuno Nogueira
Everest:   MARCH 26
Ottawa:   MARCH 26
We've left Namche Bazaar (3,440 meters) towards Tengboche. We will gain 125 meters of altitude on this warm and sunny day. A short lunch-break is taken at the base of a hill before an hour-and-a-half long hike uphill which will lead us to Tengboche Monastery. We get an impressive view of the roof of the world for most of the morning.

Meanwhile, we learn that our equipment is en route towards Base Camp. Transportation is by way of 445 yaks, each carrying 100 kilograms. We are told that the yaks are transporting, among other things, five thousand eggs! We'll be there for two months and must be self-sustaining, so that's why there's so much stuff.

Everest:   MARCH 25
Ottawa:   MARCH 25
Hello everyone,

The general practitioner of the team, who will be walking with us to base camp, has joined us now. While we walked she told us how to keep clean and prevent illness during our climb. Tomorrow she will tell us about the Khumbu cough and how to prevent it. Later, the discussion will cover what symptoms to watch out for at altitude. There are three permanent physicians at base camp until mid-April, after which there will be 2. They are there 24/7 to help us.

Our team of Sherpas (between 15 and 17 of them) have between them made a total of 76 Everest summits, not to mention numerous other summits such as Cho Oyu, Manaslu, etc. It's a strong and experienced team and they will be there to help us as well. Dawa, the Sherpa who will accompany me, is very kind. Perhaps, if time and circumstances permit, I may visit his village upon my return, as well as the school there.

Today, we made an excursion into Thame village, and tomorrow we leave for Tengboche, site of the holiest Bhuddist monastery in Khumbu Valley. It is there that we will undertake the Puja ceremony, which serves to bless climbers before their ascent of Everest.

Here is a photo of Everest as I saw it with my own eyes two days ago, during our excursion to Everest View Motel. You can clearly see the last 800 meters. I also have a photo of Namche Bazaar for you.

Until next time,
Jean



Everest:   MARCH 24
Ottawa:   MARCH 24
Today some sad news. A 65-year-old Quebec man, Marcel Bujold, while climbing mount Kilimanjaro to raise funds for CARE Canada, succumbed to as yet unknown causes. We salute his noble effort and our hearts go out to his family.

Please note that an earlier report stating that the cause of death was altitude sickness was based on premature media reports. We regret any confusion this error may have brought.

CARE Canada press release
Everest:   MARCH 23
Ottawa:   MARCH 23
Today we were able to sleep in a bit. We climbed a few hundred meters to help acclimatise. There is a hotel here called the Everest View Hotel which boasts, you guessed it, a view on Everest.

Everest was windy today. We were able to see the topmost 800 meters, the south summit and the Hillary Step.

Today I met Dawa Nuru, the Sherpa who will accompany me on this adventure. He summited Everest twice last year, for a total of 5 times now.

I gave him the clothes that Jean-François game me for him, and J-F, he thanks you with all his heart! He was also grateful for the three plush toys that my daughter Josée gave me for his children.

The Sherpas are leaving us now to finish preparations at base camp; we will rejoin them around April 2.

Until next time,

Jean
Everest:   MARCH 22
Ottawa:   MARCH 22
After an excellent breakfast, we leave for Namche Bazaar. It'll be a nice day and thankfully the weather is cooperating: 15 degrees (Celcius) and sunny. I remember a lot of places and vistas that I first saw in 2001, each as spectacular as the next. We stop for a lunch-break by the river; beautiful scenery and excellent food prepared by the IMG/Great Escapes team.

Then we're climbing the last hill of the day. From the river, it's a steady 1000 meter uphill to Namche Bazaar, capital of Khumbu. We can see Everest from here, but its summit is obscured by clouds.

We arrive at Namche at around 3pm, after a 6 hour hike. It's still very nice out and the sun gives off warmth. We set up our tents where we will spend the next 3 nights acclimatising. We are currently at 3500 meters. We learn that there is an expedition of 40 British physicians at base camp who are there to study the effects of altitude on the human body. I guess we'll be in good hands!
Everest:   MARCH 21
Ottawa:   MARCH 21
We had to leave Kathmandu a day early because of a planned general strike which would also affect flights to Lukla. Otherwise our departure would have been delayed several days. The strikes are in protest of the kidnapping and beating of a local businessman by Maoists. As you can see, Nepal isn't completely back to normal yet.

The flight to Lukla is about 45 minutes from Kathmandu. We arrived at 9:15 and were able to join the first group. After tea and breakfast, we left for Phakding, situated on the shore of the Dodh Kosi river which runs through the Khumbu valley. It will be our first campsite. Along the way, we stopped for lunch in a lodge. Afterwards it began to rain, so we stopped walking at around 3pm under quite the downpour. Thankfully we were able to dry our clothes in another lodge.

It goes without saying that it was a pretty full day: rush exit from Kathmandu, flight to Lukla, and hiking in the rain. To bed early tonight!

Everest:   MARCH 20
Ottawa:   MARCH 20
I've arrived in Kathmandu as planned, and surprisingly enough so did my luggage!

There's a change of plan right off the bat. I was supposed to stay in Kathmandu for two nights, March 20 and 21, but we need to leave tomorrow morning (March 21) at 6am for Lukla, since there is a strike planned for Kathmandu on March 22, which will prevent us from getting out of town.

So, no time to rest. Tomorrow, 25 of us (climbers, trekkers and guides), are leaving for our first day's walk. Here's a photo of the landing strip at Lukla.

Until next time,

Jean
Everest:   MARCH 16
Ottawa:   MARCH 16
Last Friday before departure, what a day! A final stroll through Gatineau park, delightful, followed by a number of local media interviews.

On that note, I'd like to thank all the media who, despite a busy schedule (due to the Quebec electoral campaign), made time for me and allowed me to share with you my dream of raising enough funds to purchase the equipment that kids in our region desperately need.

Today, I had the privilege of being welcomed by a team of wonderful nurses at the Gatineau pavilion of the CHVO, who spared some of their precious time to show me the equipment that needs replacing. It's been in use for 20 years, much like the equipment at CHEO.

As I leave, in my mind will be a lasting image of the people working in the unit, as well as some of the kids who were there while I visited. I'm sure this will be very motivating during the difficult moments.

I thank you for your kind welcome, it was deeply appreciated.

During my trip on Everest, there will be regular news updates on the website, as well as occasional telephone interviews on Radio-Canada. We'll try to keep you informed of the dates and times for these, and of changes if there are any.

I leave you now, bringing with me 85 doses of courage from the kids in the third grade of the École du Plateau, as well as best wishes from all of you. I will think of you during the best and worst moments.

Have a nice spring and talk to you next time!

Jean
Everest:   09:45   MARCH 10
Ottawa:   23:00   MARCH 9
I'm starting to get butterflies in my tummy! Less than 10 days before D day. If I'm not ready now, I'll never be. I tested my down suit this week, thanks to the Ottawa region's near-polar temperatures overnight from March 5th to the 6th, and I was very impressed - it's as warm as a sleeping bag. My mom could sleep in it! Outdoors!

Have you noticed the cool thermometer on the website? It's great; now we can follow the fundraising progression and keep our hopes up for our region's babies.

It's now even easier to figure out the remaining amount that we need. If you will forgive me another math lesson... At $50,000 remaining, $20 from 2,500 donors would do the trick. Or $40 from 1,250 donors... And remember that these donations are tax deductible - it's like the government is paying you to give to the children! Just think, it's about the cost of a bottle of wine, and those aren't deductible.

For those of you who prefer to donate by postal mail, please be sure to indicate that your donation is part of the Everest 2007 fundraiser, so that the funds will go to the right place.

Lastly, I know some of you have shared this website with your friends. I want to thank you and tell you that I am very grateful. I think it's the best way, perhaps the only way, that we will attain our goal for the children: with teamwork.

Together we'll get there. Thanks,

Jean
Everest:   18:45   FEBRUARY 28
Ottawa:   08:00   FEBRUARY 28
Training news (since many of you have asked)

The training regimen that I started six months ago is approaching its end. After having completed more than 1000 km hiking, running, cross-country skiing, and exercising on treadmills and stairmasters, most often with a 20 kg (45 lbs) backpack, I can now anticipate the end of this stage and the beginning of the actual expedition. Sometimes I think the training is the hardest part of the whole thing. As of February 27th, I have les than 3 weeks of training left, and I'll be ready to go. To tell you the truth, I feel ready now and I'm in the best shape of my life.

The final weeks will be devoted to maintaining my fitness with aerobic and resistance training. I will also brush up on my rope skills and ice techniques that I learned and used during the McKinley expedition in 2005. The Luskville falls lend themselves well to ice technique practise, while roping techniques will be reviewed in Gatineau Park.

As well, I will also be practising how to walk with crampons over horizontal stepladders, to simulate the Khumbu Icefall traverse. It's important to be certain that I can adjust the crampons to fit the width of the rungs and that balance is not a problem, even with a heavy backpack. I also have to know what to do if I need to remove a crampon mid-way over a ladder.

The last week will be a time of rest, and also luggage preparation. I also hope to gain a few kilos before leaving, since I know I'll be losing at least 7-10 (15-25 lbs) during the expedition. For those of you wanting to lose weight, come to the mountain and it's a sure thing!

The fundraising is progressing well, and there will be more radio and TV interviews as the departure date approaches. I'll keep you informed on this website. In the meantime, please help me reach our $70,000 goal to purchase medical equipment for CHEO and the CSSS of Gatineau. Our kids need your help. You can donate online, or by mail or phone. Thanks.

Cheers,
Jean
Everest:   22:45   FEBRUARY 23
Ottawa:   12:00   FEBRUARY 23
Only three more weeks until the adventure begins!

This week we sent out a mass email to many of you, asking for your donations to help the kids, specifically for the purchase of two incubators for CHEO and the CSSS of Gatineau Foundation. I'm grateful for the time you've taken to read my message. I know you must receive many such requests. Know that this time, the benefits will be felt right here in our region.

Okay, enough clichés, what else can I say to convince you? Ah, I know, this: that any gift is appreciated, even $5. If 10,900 people each gave $5, that along with our sponsors' gifts would reach our goal! And if it was $10, well I'm sure you can do the math.

In other news, my training is continuing slowly but surely. To be honest, it's starting to become a bit dull, but you can never be too well prepared.

So, I'm doing my bit, please help if you can, thanks very much,

Jean
Everest:   00:45   FEBRUARY 18
Ottawa:   14:00   FEBRUARY 17
By the end of last week it was time for the official launch of the Everest for Kids fundraiser, with a press conference held at the Ecole du Plateau in Hull sector. The event brought a number of local media and captivated the entire third grade, who were also on hand to give him a drawing of a yeti.

"I will be bringing it with me to the summit of Everest! Thank you all!

I hope that this media coverage will help citizens of the area to become acquainted with a cause that is dear to me, namely the purchase of two incubators for our smallest and most vulnerable ones.

Please share this website with your friends and acquaintances. Together we can make a difference in our region!

Let's be generous!"



Everest:   02:45   FEBRUARY 10
Ottawa:   16:00   FEBRUARY 09
We are pleased to announce that we now have 3 official sponsors for the Everest for kids climb.

Fujitsu has signed on to be a major sponsor, our first "SUMMIT" sponsor. Fujitsu Consulting Canada has generously donated $10,000 to get our cause off the ground with a bang. Thanks!


Cactus Commerce has also agreed to become a sponsor. In addition to a $2,500 donation, Cactus will be providing hosting facilities for the web site and support and expertise to develop the secure payment component. Cactus is our first "Advanced Base Camp" sponsor.


CGI has contributed an amount of $3,000 to become our first "Base Camp" sponsor.



Sincere thanks to all our sponsors.
Copyright © 2007 Denis Séguin - All rights reserved